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05 February 2012
Time Out Dubai Staff on Wednesday, 16 May 2007
It was like something out of a beauty pageant. From a tranquil table on the softly lit terrace outside The Sapphire – the newly opened restaurant and bar at Century Village – we watched the young women sashay across the decking and through the doors, where some attempt at a swanky party was gathering pace. The luxuriant, flowing hair, the pouting, glossy lips, the pushed-out chests and the belt-narrow mini-skirts were competing for attention with my fish and chips – a rack of chunky, fluffy potato wedges crouching under a fillet of pan-fried salmon drizzled in chilli sauce.
The pink, moist flesh glistened in the moonlight, its sweet scent filling the air with tempting promises of guilty pleasures. And the fish wasn’t bad either.

Whatever this army of stunners was here for, it evidently wasn’t the food. Many of them looked like they hadn’t eaten in weeks. Which was a shame. They could have filled their thigh-length boots with The Sapphire’s grilled jumbo prawns, for a start. A fine catch of stout crustaceans was complemented by a zingy green papaya som tam salad, which was riddled with hot peppers and studded with crushed peanuts. Equally as appetising was my grilled hammour satay, which offered skewers of succulent smoky fish shrouded in a hearty dollop of nutty sauce next to an addictively tasty grilled pineapple salsa. Both starters looked the part, but they had the personality to match.

As more stiletto heels stabbed at the terrace decking, a surefooted waiter approached with our main courses. The Thai green curry was a creamy crowd of tender chicken pieces, squishy Thai aubergines, chunky lemongrass shards and crunchy bamboo shoots with chilli and fresh coriander leaves. It was soon mixed in with a bowl of steamed plain rice and made scarce. Similarly, precious little was left of my fish and chips – a dish as simple as Paris Hilton and twice as satisfying as her prison sentence. And it wasn’t long before more attractive treats were brought to the table.

Following a grinning waiter’s gushing recommendation, I chose the sticky date pudding. It arrived in a close, spongy, fruit-packed lump plonked in a sweet caramel sauce next to a blob of smooth, white vanilla bean ice cream and it duly disappeared in a flash. Meanwhile, across the table, a wedge of kaffir lime cheesecake and blueberry jam was being attacked and dispatched with surprising celerity. Those party-going girls didn’t know what they were missing.

The bill (for two)
Mineral water
Dhs17
Jumbo prawns
Dhs55
Grilled hammour satay
Dhs30
Sapphire fish and chips
Dhs60
Thai chicken green curry
Dhs65
Cheesecake
Dhs25
Sticky date pudding
Dhs25
Total (not including service)
Dhs277

The Sapphire, Century Village, Aviation Club (04 286 8520). Open daily 5pm-12 midnight.

All major credit cards accepted.

Reviewed by Time Out Dubai Staff on Wednesday, 16 May 2007

 
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